Letter From Paris: Designing Lingerie, French Style

Letter from Paris Esmod

“Style is a simple way of saying complicated things.” — Jean Cocteau


Kathryn Kemp-Griffin, President of Pink Bra Bazaar, a lingerie charity dedicated to raising money and awareness for breast cancerby Kathryn Kemp-Griffin
TLJ’s Associate Editor for France

Kathryn is the co-founder of Pink Bra Bazaar, a charity dedicated to breast health education and supporting women with breast cancer. She is also founder of  Paris Lingerie Tours and offers exclusive lingerie tours as an unusual alternative to the regular tourist attractions.

Contact Kathryn at: kathryn@thelingeriejournal.com


Founded in 1841, Esmod is the oldest fashion school in the world, and has expanded to include 23 schools in 15 countries, educating students in design, fashion and business. For those specializing in lingerie, the final year is dedicated to learning about different materials and techniques to respond to the demands of an emerging sector in the world of luxury and creation.

To graduate, students prepare and present their collection in front of a jury composed of industry professionals. As a member of the jury, I look forward to this annual rendez-vous with great anticipation, eager to discover the new faces and talent behind tomorrow’s collections.

Below is a selection of the work of 11 promising students, offering a privileged glimpse into their creative process and the inspiration and motivation behind their decision to pursue careers designing lingerie.

1. Mathilde Alloin &
2. Laurent Gogniat

Mathilde Alloin and Laurent Gogniat 3
What word(s) best describe your collection?
Modern poetry

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?

Mathilde – It wasn’t really planned. I thought learning about design would be a springboard to career in fashion communication, but I found myself totally overwhelmed by the joy of creating. The relationship of lingerie to a woman’s body and the importance of detail are intriguing elements to consider when playing with femininity and eroticism.

Laurent – I love the precision and detail involved when working with lingerie and small pieces of fabric.

Mathilde Alloin and Laurent Gogniat 2 Mathilde Alloin and Laurent Gogniat  1

Photos above by Julien Dabadie.

 


 

3. Chloé Géradin

Chloe Gerardin

What word(s) best describe your collection?
Structural

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?
As a little girl, I drew dresses and as I got older, I started making them, even though they weren’t always a success! I’ve always enjoyed meticulous work and lingerie lends itself to small-scale details more than conventional garments. A woman decides whether or not to reveal her lingerie, and this allows a certain creative freedom that is not possible when designing clothes visible to everyone.

Chloe Gerardin 2 Chloe Gerardin 4

 


 

4. Victoire Gorioux

Victoire Gorioux 1

What word(s) best describe your collection?
Body Expression

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?
When I was 14 years old, I asked my mother to buy me some silk so I could make a dress. She bought beautiful gray silk satin, but then decided it was too extravagant to give to a young girl with no sewing experience, so she hid it. I looked everywhere! When I found the silk I secretly made the dress and knew then that I wanted to make all of my clothes. For me, designing lingerie is more fun than making large pieces. Lingerie is ultra feminine and the materials are so refined. When I design an ensemble, I am aware of every detail.

Victoire Gorioux 2 Victoire Gorioux 3

 


 

5. Pauline Hubin

Pauline Hubin 3

What word(s) best describe your collection?
Opulence

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?
I chose to become a lingerie designer as a way to escape into another world and express my ideas and desires.

Pauline Hubin 2 Pauline Hubin 1

 


 

6. Emmanuelle Kernen

Emmanuelle Kernen 2
What word(s) best describe your collection?
Diaphanous

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?
As a child, I made dresses for my Barbies. My passion grew and I started drawing and making my own clothes. Lingerie appeals to me in particular because of the finesse of the materials and the delicate play with transparency on the body.

Emmanuelle Kernen 3 Emmanuelle Kernen 1

 


 

7. Fanny Mahé

Fanny Mahe 3

What word(s) best describe your collection?
Freshness

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?
I dreamed of becoming a designer as a child. I’m not sure I can explain why. I love the manual work involved, from the touch and feel of the fabric to creating the design.
Fanny Mahe 1

 


 

8. Louise Mouton

Louise Mouton 1

What word(s) best describe your collection?
Sea, Sex and Fun.

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?
I have always loved working with my hands and am greatly influenced by the power of images and graphics. I try to combine graphics and fashion in my work and particularly enjoy designing lingerie as it requires combining small pieces and tiny details.

Louise Mouton 2 Mouton_4

 


 

9. Noémie Proquin

Noémie Proquin 6

What word(s) best describe your collection?
Smoking.

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?
I have always loved sewing, however, I don’t consider myself a designer. I love the research and artistic development involved when I work on a drawing and find a new way to put together a garment. The choice of lingerie was obvious: What’s better than lingerie when you want to work for women?

Noémie Proquin 5 Noémie Proquin 4

 


 

10. Aina Sabaté Solé

Aina Sabaté Solé 2

What word(s) best describe your collection?
Spain

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?
Fashion for me is much more than a job, it is my vocation. This is my way to express myself and to show others what I feel and who I am.
Aina Sabaté Solé 3 Aina Sabaté Solé 1

 


 

11. Kim Zhien Jin

Kim Zhien Jin 1

What word(s) best describe your collection?
Modern

Why do you want to be a lingerie designer?
I have always been interested in fashion and design and found myself naturally drawn to the sensual, fashionable, and technical challenges of lingerie.

Kim Zhien Jin 3 Kim Zhien Jin 2

 


 

Contact Information

For more information about the students and their collections, please contact the students directly using the contact information below.

Mathilde Alloin: alloinmathilde@hotmail.fr
Chloé Gérardin: mini-galadriel@hotmail.fr
Laurent Gogniat: laurent.bco@free.fr
Victoire Gorioux: victoiregorioux@hotmail.fr
Pauline Hubin: hubin.pauline@hotmail.fr
Julien Dabadie: julien.dabadie@gmail.com
Emmanuelle Kernen: emmanuellekernen@gmail.com
Fanny Mahé: mahe.fanny29@gmail.com
Louise Mouton: louise.ttm@gmail.com
Noémie Proquin: noemie.proquin@live.fr
Aina Sabaté Solé: ainasabate@hotmail.es
Kim Zhien Jin: kim7eun@msn.com

Esmod Paris
12 rue de la Rochefoucauld
75009 Paris

www.esmod.com

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