Letter From Paris — February 2016
Above: Paloma Casille.
“The Salon International de la Lingerie & Interfilière is the quintessential show. It inspires wonder, elegance, and beauty and has the added advantage of being in Paris, the City of Light, Love, & Lingerie.”
by Kathryn Kemp-Griffin, TLJ’s Associate Editor for France.
Fashion reinvents itself every season. At least it tries to. Bold headlines announce the “return” of a color that becomes the new black, and an inch more, or less, sets off a “back to,” mini or maxi trend.
The Salon International de la Lingerie & Interfilière held in Paris at the end of January is LE rendezvous of the season, but which season? If you are a brand, it’s confirmation of SS16 and presentation of AW16/17. If you’re a designer, it’s preparation of SS17 and a sneak peek at AW17/18.
But what do seasons really have to do with lingerie? It’s not like women wear down-filled bras in winter and waterproof panties during typhoon season. A stroll through the majority of lingerie departments at any time of the year reveals a preponderance of black, white, and beige. If three colors represent the majority of lingerie sales than why bother with trade shows at all?
Because trade shows offer an opportunity to experience the emotions and sensations triggered by lingerie. Women want to understand — really understand — how lingerie can ultimately enhance their sense of well-being. As an industry, it is our role to help pass along this experience to end-consumers who want to know more than the latest trends. Shapes, styles, colors, and textures make a compelling narrative along with a language that provokes as well as it reassures and explains. One just needs to read between the seams.
The Salon International de la Lingerie & Interfilière is the quintessential show. It inspires wonder, elegance, and beauty and has the added advantage of being in Paris, the City of Light, Love, & Lingerie.
Below are the Seven Wonders of the Salon International de la Lingerie & Interfilière 2016.
Good lingerie moves with you. No matter what the occasion, or the season. Light and almost ethereal fabrics create subtle and transparent effects while fanciful frills and details adorn and celebrate the silhouette. The models in these photos infuse spectacular energy and grace.
2. Forum Interfilière
This is where creative minds hang out: a playground of fabrics, textures, and color. Most designers will tell you that it is the fabric that inspires the design and rarely the other way around. Lingerie inspires reverie. No beige anywhere.
Why? Dreams don’t come in beige.
Here, seasons blur. Crossover, multifunction Lingerie-To-Wear pieces such as pajamas and lace dresses reflect the versatility and adaptability of lingerie for contemporary lifestyles.
3. Germaine de Près
Lingerie designer Pascale Gransagnes doesn’t care what season it is, or even if it’s day or night! Versatile fabrics and designs allow summer shorts to serve as winter pajamas and camisoles to double as summer tops. Created in 2011, Pascale values freedom, resulting in a collection that offers 50 colors.
The 2016 “Designer of the Year” is a Swiss brand synonymous with understated luxury and ultimate design. Created in 1884, Albert Handschin and Carl Ronus began making lingerie in soft, natural, wearable fabrics for the modern woman. More than 130 years later, Hanro continues to create timeless pieces, including the iconic Cotton Seamless, a V-neck top with spaghetti straps, made famous by Nicole Kidman in “Eyes Wide Shut.
Intemporel. Timeless. Jacquard is as modern today as it was when it was invented in 1801. Named after its inventor, Joseph-Marie Jacquard (1752 – 1834), the eponymous weaving loom uses punch cards strung together to compose complex patterns. Each row of holes on a punch card corresponds to a row of the design. Woven or knitted, Jacquard is synonymous with luxury and beauty and continues to charm and enchant us, whatever the season.
The maxim, “the end justifies the means” is no longer true. For many, the means doesn’t justify the end. Consumers, especially, want to know the whole story and even more importantly, they want to be part of it. Manufacturers, designers, brands, and retailers are all searching to connect a sense of purpose and aesthetic. Experiences make us happier than things. Lingerie must, therefore, be something more than a hidden and forgettable undergarment. Lingerie imbued with meaning appeals to our senses and ultimately enhances our lives.
The following three designers are strong advocates of detail and luxury, and their dedication to quality and craftsmanship can be found within every stitch.
Simplicity is one of the most difficult things to achieve; yet every piece in this collection reflects an effortless elegance. Hand-placed guipure and invisible seams synchronize to envelope the body, showcasing its mystery and secrets.
Les Jupons de Tess
7. Simone Pérèle
Every minute, an Andora bra is purchased somewhere in the world. This year’s collection includes an embellished and embroidered back version to celebrate the ten-year anniversary of Andorra’s timeless — and seasonless — elegance.
Kathryn Kemp-Griffin is the author of Paris Undressed: The Secrets of French Lingerie to be published later this year and the Founder of Pink Bra Bazaar, a non-profit organization dedicated to breast health and supporting women with breast cancer.
Contact Kathryn at: email@example.com