Salon International de la Lingerie & Interfilière
by Laura Luchtman
Laura is a multi-faceted designer with a great passion for art, music and all things beautiful. She works in the body fashion industry designing patterns and styling ranges for a number of major Dutch retailers and international clients. Laura works freelance on an interim basis. To learn more about her work, please visit: kukka.nl
After a four-and-a-half hour drive I arrived in snowy Paris to see Salon International de la Lingerie celebrate its 50th birthday. In a snug winter wonderland the lingerie industry presented their F/W 2013-2014 collections. Visitors were welcomed by snow elves to receive their white and silver bracelets that gave access to the Salon as well as Interfilière.
The floor was divided into five ‘universes’: The Essentials (key lingerie and corsetry brands), Cocooning (homewear, loungewear and sleepwear), Designer Labels, Limited Edition (young nightwear and homewear designers) and So Him.
First I headed over to the Designer Labels and Limited Edition, because those are a real treat. I got to see and feel the new collections from Made by Niki, Damaris, Kiss Me Deadly and more. I also discovered some new brands. KS Paris is a sensual lingerie label inspired by Japanese culture. It mixes fine material like silk and lace from Calais with tulle and imitation leather.
Pretty Wild lingerie is a brand new label from The Netherlands, handmade by designer Firouze Akhbari. The collection is very sexy and refined with high attention to detail. My absolute favorite pieces from the first collection are a leather & lace bodysuit and dress and the lingerie set with tassels. I wouldn’t be surprised if the high fashion magazines pick up on this brand very soon.
Above: Maud & Marjorie
Lost in Wonderland made its debut last June on Mode City and this was the first time on SIL, presenting its second collection. The brand from Berlin, designed by Scarlett Großelanghorst, is strictly vegan and the line is produced exclusively in Europe. Also new is the brand Ysé, which is a French brand made for smaller busted women. Their size ranges only from cup A to B, without padding. With most brands increasingly focusing on large cup sizes, this is a welcome addition to the market. New to the trade show, but not new to the market and definitely worth mentioning are Maud & Marjorie from Paris and Amarcod from Italy.
Above: KS Paris and Lost in Wonderland
After visiting these brands I went to the trend presentation by Concepts Paris, where Design Director Jennifer Kell, presented 10 themes for Spring/Summer 2014 with a sneak peak to Fall/Winter 2014-2015. It’s obvious that the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 trends blend smoothly with the upcoming seasons. I’ll try to sum up the main trends and developments:
Consumer trends show a higher demand in lightweight fabric and less padding. Refinement in make and technique is key to establish an everyday comfort that’s pretty none the less. Spacer cups that are constructed from a dual layer foam fabric rather than a single layered dense padded cup. The fabric feels light, airy and breathes. The lightness does not equate to a loss in support. Also finishing is important, wings are bonded or laminated. Regina Miracle for example developed a bra that is made entirely out of one piece, without stitching.
Above: Regina Miracle Signature Bra
Shape & Construction
This trend is all about high function & high fashion. Focus lies on the neckline, which shows more covered vintage inspired styles but also bandeau and heart-shaped necklines. Wires are hidden or replaced by foam to push and support, like the Push Positive push up bra by Calvin Klein. Plunge & push-ups are the most popular styles in this theme. The more covered styles come with higher waistline panties, although low-rise bikinis remain bestsellers. 2-way stretch lace is used in shapewear.
Above: centre V-wire by Gossard
Architectural and graphic looks creating fragile and delicate yet strong garments. It’s all about contrast. Two-toned styles are very popular. We see a restrained use of details and accessories to complete the graphic look.
Sporty and cute garments with use of lace, inspired by the street look of youngsters. Relaxed shapes with a dropped waistline and racer backs to give it a sporty edge. Glam & sport are combined. VSX by Victoria’s secret is a good example.
Use of contemporary crepes and muslin. Richness is created through Art Nouveau inspired placement motifs and embroideries on stretch grounds. Also adding texture or the illusion of texture through print and pleating and draping.
Casual looks in loungewear with a fashion element and a touch of sophistication. Slubbed and ribbed knits with roomy proportions in A-line shapes. Bagginess and cowl necks combined with fitted parts, a fitted sleeve for example. Softness is key in sleepwear with brushing outside and in. Combinations of beachwear, lingerie, sleepwear, and loungewear create mix ‘n match lifestyle wardrobes to wear outside.
Floral prints are revamped. Prints are airbrushed, faded, gradient, vague florals with a watercolor effect. Youthful half colored prints with graphical outlines. Flowers with an artistic look. Ethnic geometrics inspired by Isabel Marant and contemporary camouflage like Dries van Noten. Futuristic prints inspired by the northern light and galaxy.
Fun animal and figurative prints in nightwear. Fun but not too junior focused. Anthropologie and Oysho are good examples.
Above: Isabel Marant
The color palette consists of skin tones made sexy – the new nudes – like muted taupes and silver. Matte and shiny fabrics are combined. Pastels are combined with shiny fabrics and metallics. Pastels are also used in a sporty context. Brights and a touch of fluorescent, not full garments. Also a dark color palette of green, blue and purple replace black. The color red is used in a rich and couture way instead of the usual Valentine look.
Earth tones and rusty colors like cumin, ochre and terracotta colors gain popularity. These colors are also combined in less obvious ways, like rusty red with turquoise as seen at Jill Stuart.
I ended my day with a visit to the Selection Fashion Show. The show started with a burlesque act by Maison Close followed by the season’s key pieces from the leading brands. If you’re interested in learning more about the show and are considering attending, please visit http://www.lingerie-paris.com/en
Learn more about Laura
Laura is a multi-faceted designer with a great passion for art, music and all things beautiful. She works in the body fashion industry designer patterns and styling ranges for a number of major Dutch retailers and international clients. Laura works freelance on an interim basis. To learn more about her work, please visit: kukka.nl